Platinum, diamond, emerald and onyx 'Panthere' ring, Cartier. Platinum, diamond, emerald and onyx 'Panthere' ring, Cartier, designed as a panther, the rotating head decorated with pear-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose, the hinged paws and body pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53 (M), signed Cartier, French assay and maker's marks, numbered 674. Accompanied by a Cartier box. Other Notes: First conceptualised as a design motif by Cartier in 1914, Jeanne Toussaint, the Creative Director from 1933, affectionately referred to by Louis Cartier as 'Panthere' was responsible for developing the panther into an iconic jewellery design. Captivated by the panther's femininity, power and untameable energy, working alongside designer Peter Lemarchand, the panther soon informed some of Jeanne's most exclusive jewels created for the stylish and powerful women of the day including the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellows and Barbara Hutton., the panther has since leapt into fashion history to become the symbol of the House of Cartier.