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Auction House:
Auction Location:
Melbourne
Date:
19-Sep-2023
Lot No.
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Description:
A very fine and beautiful silk-velvet Ikat robe, Central Asian, last quarter nineteenth century. mounted on linen and stretched on a frame. Central Asia is renowned for its textiles ranging from appliques in wool, silk and cotton, embroidered hats and accessories, suzani wall hangings and covers, and vibrant ikat cloth fashioned into distinctive clothing. Of all the luxurious fabric produced in nineteenth-century Central Asia, it is the silk-velvet ikat produced in the Silk Road trading centres of modern-day Uzbekistan that commands the highest prices and prestige. The process of producing ikat (from the Malay word, mengikat, meaning 'to tie' or 'to bind') involves both the warp and weft threads being skilfully dyed before weaving. The labour-intensive technique is not confined to Central Asia, but is found widely throughout south-east Asia, India and Japan. However, Uzbekistan's historic production is unmatched in its diversity of colour and boldness of design. This exquisitely crafted woman's robe, tailored in the munisak style, was likely part of a dowry. Its design of almond shaped motifs (bodom in Central Asia, boteh in Iran and India) projecting from stylised plant forms has antecedents in the region and prototypes in Sassanian-era Iran (224–651 CE). Its colours, including a saturated blue-green ground, with vibrant yellow, deep mulberry, red and prestigious ivory, are harmonious and well preserved. The tightly woven silk-velvet pile is close-cropped and even throughout. Provenance: Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery Istanbul; private collection Melbourne. References: Lot 1114, The Ann and Gordon Getty Collection, Christie's, New York, October 2022. Sold for US$23,940. Kate Fitzgibbon and Andrew Hale, Ikat, Silks of Central Asia, The Guido Goldman Collection, London, 1997, pp. 276–289. Sumru Belger Krody, ed., Colours of the Oasis: Central Asian Ikats, Washington, D. C., 2011, pp. 226–228. Dimensions: 135 cm wide 120 cm high
Estimate:
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Price:
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Category:
Unclassified